Blue Book Country Houses of Sligo and Mayo

For the Best Accommodations in Ireland Look to the Blue Book

Like hidden gold at the end of the rainbow, standing nobly in the hushed corners of Ireland’s countryside, these are the magnificent family estates aptly known as Irish Country Homes. Splendid, gracious and welcoming, they have the power to raise us above the clackety clak of a noisy world, to land on a cushion of refined ambience so surreal it’s like wandering through the pages of a Jane Austin novel.

For a traveler with a compelling desire to make a visit to Ireland a truly memorable experience, Ireland’s Blue Book is a dependable guide.

As a native who returns often, I have found Blue Book properties to be representative of an historic Ireland with deep, enduring ties to the soil. With the ruins of Irish castles still prominent on the land, some properties reach back centuries to the time of Irish Kings. Some were built by Britain’s landed gentry who did what they pleased with Irish property. Others were owned by Irish families who put their lives on the line to protect their land.

On a recent visit to the northwestern Counties of Mayo and Sligo, I added three more Irish Country Homes to my travel collection: Coopershill House, near Riverstown in Co. Sligo, Enniscoe House, in Crossmolina, Co. Mayo, and Stella Maris, in tiny Ballycastle, Co. Mayo.

Finding the exact location of these lovely Irish Country Homes is always an adventure that promises a major reward at the end of the journey.

As the long shadows of evening fell before us on a quiet country lane, with a gas tank running low, my sister and I were relieved to see the Coopershill House sign. A few minutes later, we turned into an impressive, open-gated driveway and drove still further, passing through a forest with a canopy of dense trees, we came upon a fenced deer farm. We were beginning to think we might be lost, when, through a clearing in the distance, I spotted a magnificent, white Georgian style mansion. There it was! My heart leapt at the sight. Tired and cold, I had visions of the warmth and wonders that might lie under that impressive roof.

My reference book tells me that in the 1750’s current owner Brian O’ Hara’s Great-great-great Grandparents, Arthur and Sarah Cooper, built the mansion. The story goes that after engaging an architect and builder, the couple stood on a hill and placed two buckets of gold sovereigns on the ground, instructing them to build a grand house on the spot. Completion took a tumultuous 19 years.

No sooner had I pulled into the driveway, parked the car and opened the trunk, when we were greeted by handsome Simon O’ Hara, young heir to Coopershill, who now manages the estate. With a handshake and charming Irish smile, he picked up our suitcases, transporting them lightly up the steps into a grand vestibule with high ceilings and an air of spacious elegance. I stood for a moment as my eyes rested on landscape paintings, family portraits and antique furnishings. A staff person passed through a doorway, wafting a tantalizing aroma of dinner preparations. I found additional warmth in an enthusiastic greeting from two black Labs who seemed beside themselves to see us, rolling over and wagging their tails. As Simon introduced the Labs as Samson and Delilah, along came the most winsome, appealing, and bedraggled little waif of a dog, Gus, who looked as ancient as the hills of Ireland. This rather lucky stray wandered onto the estate and was invited to stay. With his curiously independent and affectionate ways, Gus is the one who steals the hearts of guests.

A wide, mahogany staircase lined with historic photographs, stag heads, and small paintings brought us up to our room on the second floor. Vast and welcoming, the lamps were already lit at the bedside tables. From two massive casement windows, I could see across the treetops, where low lying clouds veiled the peak of a single, brooding mountain silhouetted against the white light of evening.

A high, canopy bed, covered with a gold-threaded, down duvet, stood in the center of the room, adorned with a mound of decorative pillows. An antique lamp hung from the 14 ft. ceiling, its light reflecting in the oval mirror of a beautiful old dressing table. A standing carved wardrobe was large enough for an entire season of attire. An extra twin bed, small and cozy, was aligned with the corner. A bright, cheerful marble bathroom with the same marvelous casement windows and a modern, smooth functioning shower added to the comfort of our home for two nights.

Just below me, the gardens, still moist from a recent shower, shone in a deep soothing green. Spread beneath my window were long rows of lettuce, cabbage and other vegetables along with a splash of color from dahlias in full bloom. And I was only catching a glimpse of the 200-acre estate.

In the evening guests gathered in the drawing room for a pre-dinner cocktail by a roaring fire. We felt fortunate to find a group of friendly natives from County Kildare who were celebrating a reunion with their American friends, Craig and Kate, from Woodenville in Washington state. Welcoming us into their group, we felt an immediate camaraderie and the famous Irish craic began. This banter is one of Ireland’s many attractions.

Tonight, some American guests talked about where they had been, what they had seen, and their impressions of Ireland. A couple from Ohio, in Ireland just two days, were brimming over with tales of their experience.

“I loved the Cliffs of Moher, Ireland is breathtaking at every turn and I am really surprised at the friendliness of the Irish people,” exclaimed Catherine. Dan was impressed with the landscape and history of County Sligo. They were looking forward to seeing more of Yeats country and were already making plans for a second trip to Ireland.

At breakfast the next morning, I wasn’t surprised to suddenly hear the 10 Irish friends burst into some Abba songs. It could have been inspired by the re-vitalizing morning feast known as an Irish grill. Coopershill again is a winner for the quality of it's home grown products.

Much of this wonderfully relaxed ambience can be attributed to the warmth of the O’Hara family’s down-to-earth attitude. For some, living in Coopershill might create a comfortable cocoon of splendid and enviable isolation, but Simon O’Hara likes to travel. He has lived abroad, both as a child and as an adult. He is interested in world affairs and keeps abreast of all the nuances of American politics. Artistic and intellectual, Simon, a genuine host who enjoys meeting people, is destined to carry on the tradition of Coopershill hospitality.

If a guest, by chance, meets Simon’s father, Brian O’Hara, in just the right mood, he can regale you with a stimulating account of all the relatives lining the walls, and a fascinating history of ownership of this fabulous property. Listening to him, you find the ingredients for a great novel: a microcosm of Irish history, British domination, bigotry, betrayal and family feuds.

Simon’s mother, Lindy O’Hara, is the fulcrum keeping it all together. A strong and charming woman, she can prepare an unforgettable five-course dinner with the casual aplomb of an expert juggler. Tables are adorned with fresh flowers, candles, Beleek china and Waterford crystal. Guests have a guarantee that the meal, served next to a blazing fire, is both delicious and nourishing, with ingredients fresh from the garden. Lindy’s flaky apple tart, topped with a generous dollop of fresh cream, was simply delicious. Dessert is followed by a fine selection of Ireland’s renowned cheeses, along with port wine. Diners can then adjourn to the drawing room for a night cap or a coffee or tea.

Guests take full advantage of the many walks, nearby trout stream fishing and tennis courts in fair weather.

A two or three night stay at Coopershill is restorative in unexpected ways. This elegant and charming atmosphere, surrounded by history and gentle countryside, offers a stepping stone back into an era when Ireland was all green serenity and the world was less stressful. This lovely Georgian estate is a treasure for both Irish people and visitors. Through the lens of my Irish heritage, I felt enormous appreciation for the O’Hara family's protection of the timeless character of their home, encompassing the best of Irish hospitality under one roof for all to enjoy.

For more information on Coopershill House visit Coopershill.com.

Call their US representative at (800) 323-5463, or dial direct at (011) 353-7191-65108.

Heading southwest from Sligo, my sister and I passed through the “forgotten' village of Ballycastle, a place that brought smiles to our faces.

“This is so Ireland of yesterday,” my sister said with great enthusiasm. The village consists primarily of a main street, lined with row houses and businesses including a butcher shop, a bakery, a B&B, and the Ballyglen Art Center which we promised to visit on the way out. Leaving the village and crossing the brink of a hill, we could see our destination, Stella Maris Country House, on Bunatrahir Bay. A magnificent sight, the hotel stands boldly--it’s long, white fortress-like edifice, under a black, slate roof graced with towers on both ends, jutting out on the peninsula. The waves of the Atlantic beat the rocks that skirt the walls, almost reaching the 100-foot long solarium running along the front.

The history of Stella Maris (Star of the Sea) encompasses a lively mix of war and peace, captivity and freedom.

Stella Maris was built in 1853 as a Coast Guard fortress. The structure served as regional headquarters for the British government until 1921, when the Republic of Ireland shed British domination. In 1914, while Dublin was experiencing the bloody Easter Uprising, in Ballycastle the fortress was being transformed into a Sisters of Mercy convent. The sisters offered classes in lace-making and music in their convent home, traveling into Ballycastle on a horse drawn cart to teach primary school. They lived in Stella Maris until 1960 when the church sold the property to a Ballycastle couple, Annie and Frank Whelan, who transformed the building into a family run hotel. It stayed in the Whelan family for a few generations until the children were grown. Mary and Frank decided to sell it in the early 80’s.

By coincidence, it came to the attention of Frances Kelly, a Ballycastle native who resided in America, but was home to celebrate the 25th anniversary of a Sister of Mercy sibling. Frances had fond memories of her work in the hotel during her summer holidays. She decided she wanted to own this spectacular property, and soon she returned to Ballycastle with her husband to purchase the unique building. Their mission was to create a luxurious environment for a choice clientele who would appreciate the solitude and tranquility that west Mayo offers. They started renovation in 2000 and reopened two years later.

Pulling into the parking lot, we sat in the car with windows rolled down, drinking in the great view of breaking waves below green fields, listening to raucous, squalling seagulls gliding in freedom over the waves all the way to the slopes of Downpatrick Head.

The enormous front door, with its old brass knocker, seems to encapsulate centuries of harsh weather. I am sure this door could tell its own story of all the comings and goings.

Stella Maris is run like a modern, efficient hotel. Greetings are cordial, but there is no particular personal warmth that stands out. Our third floor tower room was simple with a spectacular view. We mused about the nuns finding inspiration in the view, then laughed at the image of ourselves--two tired “sisters” who could now relax and meditate. Each single bed, piled high with soft pillows, had its own window looking out on what had become our favorite scene--restless ocean breaking before lush green fields. Furnishings are a mixture of antiques and casual, comfortable pieces, and the bathroom had a fantastic shower. Beddings and linens are of high quality.

The solarium is a favorite meeting place for guests to pause before dinner with drinks and hors d’oeuvres. Owner Frances Kelly oversees the kitchen. She has been cited for culinary excellence in many publications since the hotel’s inception.

Stella Maris is strategically located between the world renowned golf links of Enniscrone, and sea and freshwater fishing are steps away.

Ballycastle is not to be missed when visiting County Mayo. Unique and charming, this small village of 450 inhabitants steals the heart. It basks in unspoiled beauty where simplicity of life seems the dominant feature. To garner more insight into this charming village, we visited Mary’s Bakery for a steaming cup of Irish tea and a freshly baked scone. In this cozy atmosphere, Mary, a smile on her pleasant face and her hair covered by a discreet hairnet, hurries between her kitchen creations and greeting the locals. Across the street, Brian Polke’s an all-around grocery store has a comfortable bar in the rear where people meet for storytelling and a drink or two in the evening. Brian is one of the pillars of this small community.

Mayo is also home to the famous Ceide Fields, the oldest agricultural system in the world -- over five and a half millennia. This unique Neolithic landscape of world importance has changed the perception of our Stone Age ancestors. The remnants of the stone walls, dwellings and tombs are preserved beneath a blanket of peat encompassing several square miles. The Ceide Fields Visitors Center has exhibitions, audio visual shows and opportunities to discover buried walls for yourself.

Ballycastle becomes even more interesting with a visit to the beautiful Ballyglen Art Center created by an art collecting couple from Philadelphia, Margo Dolan and husband Peter Maxwell. The Center has become a goldmine of culture for both residents and visitors. Peter, an architect, has worked wonders on this old village structure by using natural woods and creating inspiring space with sunlight pouring through large windows. All the back windows overlook the Atlantic.

The Ballyglen Art Center and Foundation awards scholarships to international artists who can bring their families and set up lodging in a cottage nearby. The Center’s walls are lined with works of contemporary artists. An outstanding portrait drawing of an elderly man with a healthy, rugged, lined face and a twinkle in his eyes looked familiar. I asked Peter who it was. He said, “Come with me.” Off we went across the street to again meet the smiling Brian Polk who protested that the drawing looked much older than himself. Indeed we had to agree.

While visiting the Ballyglen Art Center we met an artist from Jerusalem busily working on a printing project. He spoke sadly of what was happening in his country, contrasting it with the peace he had found for his family in Ballycastle.

My sister and I agreed that our stay at Stella Maris, in serene and spectacular Ballycastle, was a rewarding and memorable experience. A refreshing interlude that restores faith in a world driven by materialism, there still exists a peaceful village, in unspoiled environs, offering a grand escape.

For more information on Stella Maris Hotel please visit Stellamarisireland.com. Their US Representative is at (800) 323-5463, or the hotel can be reached directly at (011) 353-96-43322.

A visit to Enniscoe House in Castlehill is a must while traveling in County Mayo.

Just two miles outside the town of Crossmolina, we spotted a sign to Enniscoe House and another sign to the Enniscoe Museum. Turning into a long driveway set in parkland, with trees stretching out on both sides, we were delighted to see the stately Georgian manor on the shores of Lough Conn, looking splendid in the glow of the setting sun. Enniscoe, a Heritage House, plays a monumental role in Mayo’s history as the last “great house” of North Mayo. The house is surrounded by fields, mountains, gardens and woodlands that run down to beautiful Lough Conn.

At the front door we received a warm welcome from owner Susan Kellet, a soft spoken, gentle woman. A descendent of the original owners, Susan has a quiet, engaging charm which helps guests feel a genuine connection with her lovely home and its art treasures. Her son, DJ, helps in managing this well-run house which is abundant in original paintings, family photos, antique furnishings and most of all, a sense of freedom and warmth.

My sister and I had a third floor room. It was light, airy and feminine with two double beds, one topped by a canopy of beautiful French toile chintz, in shades of blue and white with matching drapes. This is the kind of room you walk into and feel brightly uplifted. The spacious bathroom had the same soft décor of blue toile chintz, abundant in soft towels and lavender soaps.

From the large windows overlooking the lovely courtyard, I could view an area of gardens and stables that have been converted into self catering apartments available for vacation rentals in the summer months.

One of the finest attractions at Enniscoe House is a visit to the spectacular gardens. While exploring the grounds we walked under a low canopy of trees and came upon an old door with an antique, Roman style window.

Certain that we had stumbled upon the Secret Garden, we turned the handle and were not quite prepared for the magnificent sight that lay before us. Not all overgrown and uncared for, as we expected, what we beheld was an ornamental, Victorian walled garden. The air was suddenly filled with the scent of roses. We strolled slowly around the garden, inhaling the many shades of roses, some in full bloom, others in perfect buds. We admired the dahlias and the variety of colors among widespread rockery plants and remarked on how the green of perfectly manicured lawns amplifies, in full magnificence, all the surrounding color.

The gardens of Enniscoe are part of the Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration Program, officially opened in 1999 by then Minister for Tourism, Dr. James Mc Daid. The gardens are used as a learning center for school groups and disadvantaged children with learning and physical disabilities. Plans are in the works to set up a West of Ireland Garden Trail. The gardens include a large, organic market garden in the back of the mansion. It’s not unusual to see Susan or one of her assistants picking ingredients for a salad in late afternoon.

Meals are served in the spacious dining room with its grand chandelier. I enjoyed seafood both evenings accompanied by homemade soups and breads. One of the joys of Enniscoe is coming down to breakfast with the enticing aroma of coffee and baking bread wafting up the stairs. One peep into the modern kitchen revealed a spread of golden scones newly released from the oven, the perfect starter to a day in Northern Mayo.

Susan is an expert on the turbulence of Irish history -- it is in her blood as well as her studies. Our conversations enlightened me about the high proportion of women revolutionaries from Mayo who made history during the years of Irish Emancipation. Women from the past like Grace O’ Malley from Clare Island and today’s history maker, Mary Robinson, are prime examples of two heroines -- worlds apart yet born in County Mayo. A recent exhibition held in Ennis, based on the book “Guns and Chiffon” by Sinead Mc Coole, showcased many women revolutionaries who played a role in Ireland’s struggle for political independence in the years 1900-1923. It is an exhibition I hope travels to the USA.

My fascination with wild and unspoiled Mayo was reinforced by talking with Susan.

Three golf courses are within easy reach and riding stables are in the area along with historical brown trout fishing.

The Enniscoe Museum and Mayo North Heritage Center is situated in one of the old farmyards behind the main house and walled garden. The center runs a small museum, tea room and shop. The family history unit is part of the national network of genealogy centers set up by the Irish Family History Foundation. The Center concentrates on the northern half of County Mayo and is open all year long.

Enniscoe House also has three holiday cottage apartments for rent in a lovely setting

For more information, visit Enniscoe.com. You can reach their US representative at (800) 323-5463 or dial directly to Enniscoe at (011) 353-96-31112.